1st Stop in the Highlands…Dunkeld and the Tay River

After leaving Edinburgh, our trip into the Highlands is divided into 4 stops or stays. First off we headed about 1-½ hours north of Edinburgh to a delightful small village, Dunkeld, in Perthshire county with a small inn situated on the River Tay. The Taybank (the Taybank.co.uk) is first and foremost a foodie stop with a highly rated restaurant and a riverside garden kitchen/beer garden overlooking the river. A small number of lovely rooms are situated upstairs and we were lucky enough to find ourselves settling here!

A room with a tranquil view!
But really the tub made the stay!
The beer garden
Nestled on the River Tay

Let me just take a moment to thank our wonderful travel planner, Janet Redler (https://www.janetredlertravelandtourism.co.uk) who, once again, organized a spectacular trip for us. Janet was responsible for our 79 day beautifully executed UK adventure Spring 2022 (which was a huge undertaking!) and so we once again asked her to help us figure out our path, and find just the right accommodations to make our stays on this much shorter trip just as special. We are so appreciative of her expertise and guidance and would highly recommend her if you ever plan on traveling in the UK and Ireland!

On the road to Dunkeld…

There were a few stops along our way from Edinburgh to Dunkeld that were not to miss opportunities! First off…we didn’t make a stop in Falkirk but I looked up just in time to see The Kelpies, 98 foot high horse-head sculptures depicting these mythical, shape-shifting water spirits. I was glad I at least had an opportunity to see them and grab a picture from the moving car.

Stirling Castle

We made our first stop in Stirling, the site of an important historical castle overlooking the River Forth. It dates from the early 12th C, although most buildings were constructed between 1490 and 1600. It was integral in many sieges and occupations during the wars for Scottish independence from England. If you’ve watched Braveheart, Willliam Wallace (Mel Gibson’s character) won his first significant battle at Stirling Bridge, and later starved the English from the castle. Gary and I ended up re-watching Braveheart last night…quite a lot looked to be inaccurate in hindsight, but interesting to re-watch while nested here in the region nonetheless!

Looking up at Stirling Castle from the highway
Stirling Castle has fabulous one-hour guided tours of the castle compound. Highly recommended! Our guide was incredibly knowledgeable and entertaining and it was a great way to get the big picture before we chose where to spend our time later. Below our just a few shots of the stunning architecture from our walk around the castle grounds.
We even bumped into a fellow Sacramento King’s fan! Small world.

We did spend some additional time after the tour looking inside some of the buildings…

The Great Hall, where feasts were held. The gorgeous ceiling is held together with only wooden pegs.
The royal’s table at the head of the room.
Beautiful lead and stained glass windows off to the side of the royal table.
The basement level kitchen…those are mannequins showing the work of the kitchen hands! A dark (and I would imagine hot and stinky) place to work.
The King (or Queen’s) receiving room. Whoever was in charge at the time! The tapestries have recently been redone from the originals.
The Queen’s bedroom
Sharing some of the royal ”honors” bestowed by the King (or Queen)
The village of Stirling, below the castle, is charming as well so make sure to allot some time to explore the shops and restaurants.

Next stop…The Wallace Memorial. William Wallace is revered in these parts, and the memorial constructed for him is another must see spot!

The Wallace Memorial
Of course Gary was eager to navigate the 239 steps to the top of the memorial! I made it to the third level but let him go alone to the rooftop as I can’t bear heights!
The Wallace Sword, a symbol of independence and liberty for the Scots. Parts of it date back to the 13 C. It is estimated Wallace was well over 6 feet tall (unusual for that time period) based on the length of his sword.
A view from the top…the site of the Battle for Stirling Bridge

Day 2 – On the road to Balmoral. The next day, we took a very scenic drive up through Cairngorms National Park to visit Balmoral, the British royal’s Scottish county estate. This was one of the Queen’s favorite places, and where she was when she passed away. The drive to the summit was just spectacular, and I enjoyed our time at Balmoral (thinking about some of those scenes in The Crown and Spencer that take place here)!

The road into the grounds are lined with beautiful, and huge, trees planted by Prince Albert and Queen Victoria.
The greenhouse
Charles has plans for a major refurbishment of the gardens that will take a few years to complete. This is the start to a hedge maze that will be in the shape of the Scottish thistle.
The frame for a swing set that Elizabeth and Margaret played on as children.
A charming little cottage next to the gardens. Queen Victoria liked to breakfast here, and in later years it became a place for the nannies to hang out in with the children. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert had 9 children that survived childbirth!
Leaving the garden you get your first glimpse of the residence.

Because Balmoral is considered more of a private, family estate (rather than a castle or palace), you primarily have access to the grounds and exterior. We were allowed into the ballroom (where there are a lot of photos and memorabilia), but no photos allowed inside. Here’s a few shots of the exterior! Overall…the setting is so peaceful, tranquil and beautiful I can understand why it is such an important respite for the family…all 50,000 acres!

It is a beautiful building. Wish I could explore those rooms…
After Balmoral, we headed over to the charming town of Braemar to eat at the 5-star Fife Arms hotel (a recommendation of our gin guide in Edinburgh!)
We ate at the Flying Stag (yes that is a flying stag behind Gary!), and Gary had the best fish and chips of his life.
I may have to just buy a cottage and move here! Isn’t this one sweet?

Day 3 – A visit to Dundee. On our last day in this region, we drove over to the coast to check out the city of Dundee. Our primary objective was to visit the V&A Dundee (the Victoria and Albert Design Museum) opened in 2018 in the city. It was well worth it! The museum covers a broad range of Scottish design (from furniture, to video games, to textiles, to bridges…if you can design it, it is there!) and is a fascinating place to spend several hours.

The building itself is stunning design and sits on in inlet to the North Sea.
One of the things I appreciated was how they captured this notion that design, in Scotland (and Britain in general), was as much impacted by the world that Britain colonized (rather than the way we typically think about it…how England influenced the world). So much of what crept in to design in the UK came from other cultures…like this silver piece with roots in Persian and Indian hookahs.
Another example was paisley…something I always thought of as ”British”, but really came from much more diverse and ancient cultures.

There was so much in this museum, but I want to just highlight a few things from a special exhibit they had on ”tartan”. I was amazed by how this very specific design (with distinct Scottish origins) permeated fashion over so many decades and in so many diverse ways (from the Victorian era, to the military, to everyday fashion, to high fashion). It was a fascinating and stunningly beautiful exhibit. Here’s just a few examples!

They also covered the nuts and bolts of how tartan is designed…the patterns, colors, etc. People have been documenting all of the tartan patterns in existence; I don’t think there is an end in sight!

Simple color palette, so many options!
An early catalog system
Which one speaks to you?!

5 responses to “1st Stop in the Highlands…Dunkeld and the Tay River”

  1. You’re learning so much Jill. I always have appreciated your enthusiasm and pure joy about your discoveries. It shows in your children, too. By the way, that Kings fan doesn’t look too happy.

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    1. Yes he was a grumpy little traveler! His partner (didn’t get impression was his wife) was much more friendly. Not to make comparisons or anything!

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  2. That feast hall ceiling tho! LOVE. I’ve been reading all the hot gos on whether Harry and Megan will come to the annual family summer vacation at Balmoral – fat chance probably 🙂 Those tartan dresses are so lovely – would wear them if I could!

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  3. Patrick Durham Avatar
    Patrick Durham

    Fantastic photos and writeup. I am taking notes for next foray into Scotland and Wales. Are you traveling south to Skye? Also a must see….Durham Cathedral ( of course). Enjoy the rest of your trip.

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    1. Hey Pat! Thanks for looking in on the blog. We purposefully caught up with Annamarie in London and heard the wild story of how you inadvertently bumped into her in Dublin – such a small world! As you’ll see in subsequent posts, we indeed did travel to the Isle of Skye, stunning scenery there. Glad you’re getting out an about on adventure, keep it up…

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