We decided for this trip to take a peek at the French and Italian Riverias…to see what all the fuss is about! Our travel planner, the incomparable Heather Lindstrom, parked us in Cannes, France for four nights; Sanremo, Italy for four nights; and Santa Margherita Ligure, Italy for three nights to fully immerse in this experience. All three spots allowed us to explore a pretty wide swath of this part of the beautiful Tyrrhenian Sea coastline.
Traveling to Cannes from Provence with fully loaded luggage was challenging. We dropped our car off in Nice, right across from the train station. As per the usual French custom, establishments close at lunch so our car rental agency was shut down, and we had about 45 minutes to wait until it opened again. Fortunately, we had some extra time built in before the train departed! But there is NO parking in Nice. None. So we spent our time driving around searching for a space to “perch” without much success.
Because we were taking local trains (the first to Ventimiglia just over the border of Italy, with a transfer to the Italian train line to go on to Sanremo), there is very little time to get onto the train and settle with luggage. And often no space to store bags. We also found a little less reliability with the French local train system…with our first train departing about 45 minutes late meaning we would miss our connection. Then to throw a wrench in things, two stops before Ventimiglia, they decided to stop the train, have everyone de board, and board the next train right behind us (since ours was so late, another train was shortly behind). Gary and I missed most of this communication as all announcements were in French only. Fortunately, before the train took off again in the reverse direction, someone took pity on those of us still sitting on the train wondering what was happening. That additional transfer was fun with all our bags trying to hustle onto a now already full train with another already full train full of passengers! And the French are not generous with their space…you really have to jostle and just push your way in. I can’t tell you how many times I moved off the sidewalk as they don’t make space when you’re walking towards them, and now I just hold firm and stay in my lane! Alas, we were able to catch another train in Ventimiglia for our very short journey to Sanremo and all is well! I do stress about these local train travel days with luggage for 70 days…not my favorite travel day!
Finally, we spot our train arriving in Nice!
The French Riviera
Cannes was certainly an experience, at least from a people watching perspective! Walking the Boulevard de la Croisette, which curves along the coastline, is an experience with the high end designer stores and luxury yachts off shore. Dare I say we don’t really blend in, but we tried! We did have a lovely hotel on the Boulevard, with a restaurant and beach club right on the sand. We passed many an hour on the delightful deck watching the street life below!
Some of the fun sculpture along the BoulevardLots of sun worshiping still going on in mid-September. Can only imagine what July and August look like! Regular sized boats alongside giant yachts.And even a rather large sailing vessel!Heading west towards St. Tropez are lots of inlets where boats find a spot to take anchor. We did test the water, just a tad bit chilly for me to go in!Beachside dining watching the sunset on a Sunday evening (no more Monday work blues!).A little seaside indulgence (for me…not Gary!).Heading east from Cannes, we spent some time in Antibes, another spot with a lot of yachts. Why am I so mesmerized with these luxury boats? I would really like to see what some of them are like onboard! We also stopped in at Villefranche-sur-Mer just north of Nice…a really charming seaside town! Gary bought his first hat here! Yes, there are more to come.
The Flowering Riviera
Sanremo is a part of what is better known as the Flowering Riviera. For this stay we were in the lovely Royal Hotel Sanremo in a very spacious two room suite overlooking the sea. Sigh. I told Gary he could just leave me here! A fantastic staff and some pretty amazing dining were in store!
Another room with a view! Beautiful outside dining. Sometimes you just have to indulge in the dessert. And hang out in the lounge for a little late night piano playing! I will say the Italians really know how to do apertifs…always with a nice mix of olives, chips and nuts. It’s a great way to break my daily 20 hour fast (that’s correct, I am fasting 20 hours a day, and eating all of the fabulousness in my 4 hour feasting window!). We did spend some time at the ”heated” (not very) seawater pool, on the deck overlooking the ocean. Not enough for me to tan at all, but it sure felt lovely to spend a few hours here!Sanremo is a beautiful city with some striking architecture! The bells chiming at noon. We did stumble into their local market. I really wish I had an empty suitcase just to fill with market goods! We decided to take the long climb to the Santuario Madonna Della Costa. This is the start of that path…a few thousands stairs later we made it to the top!Here’s a visual of the medieval town we walked through (up) to get to the jewel at the top. A panoramic view about 2/3rds of the way up, starting with this incredible tree and it’s massive roots! We made it! The jewel at the top of the hill. Always simple on the outside…and a little more ornate once you step through the doors!What was good to eat in Sanremo? Everything, but I will say this tagliatelle with pesto was pretty darn perfection.
The Italian Riviera
We picked up a car in Imperia (just north of Sanremo) that we will have until we arrive in Florence in a few weeks. The drive to Santa Margherita Ligure was exhilarating…high roads and bridges to cross the mountains bordering the sea. There were a few that I just had to put my faith in the Italian engineers…bridges higher than I am used to crossing! Gary was pretty amazed at the number of tunnels we went through as well…we estimated at least 30 in our 2.5 hour journey. Our destination, the Imperiale Hotel, took our breath away. Another stunning, grand, hotel overlooking the sea. Also some of the most spectacular gardens and grounds.
Another room with a balcony view! Looking out in another direction at sunset. Ok these aperitifs almost filled us up before dinner! But I guess when a cocktail costs 22 Euros you would expect a lot! Including a few shots of the gardens and grounds here at the Imperiale. Definitely a beautiful place for a wedding. We felt very bad for a bridal party the next day trying to get some pictures in between a torrential downpour. Must have been so disappointing! The heated seawater poolAnd private seaside deck area. The town of Santa Margherita Ligure and neighboring Portifino were hands-down my favorite of our three spots on the Riviera. Truly charming, colorful and spectacular! Many of the buildings have these colorful, painted facades. The Chiesa di Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, stunning inside but we did not take pictures as Sunday service was underway. And the food in this region blew us away! We fell in love with this very hidden neighborhood gem (we were the only non-Italians in there on a busy Friday night), called Osterio No. 7. Find it if you ever visit here. These roasted, perfectly carmelized veges melted in my mouth. And try the Pansoti in Salsa di Noce if you get a chance…tortellini shaped pasta filled with cheese and greens covered in a walnut sauce. I would have this for my last meal. Another great find was Hostaria Vecchia Rapallo in neighboring Rapallo. Gary loved these pear ravioli with cheese and balsamic sauce. And I was pretty darn happy with my pasta and buttered portobello mushrooms! On our one (partly) rainy day we made the trek down to Portofino and hiked up to the castle to take in the views. Such a charming small village (with very high end boutiques I must say). We did get to see this large sailing ship heading out the next day when we came into the town on the ferry on our way to San Fruttuoso.The castle above the harbor.A lovely view from the path. Just a charming hillside villa you can see from the path walking to the castle. What a charming spot to live! If you know me and tile, these beauties were in the castle. Looking down from the castle. Fortunately the sun came back out for our final day, and we grabbed the ferry to head down to the Abbey in San Fruttuoso. What a beautiful trip!We passed a group of children out on tiny little sailboats learning to sail. Their instructor is in the inflatable boat to the right. Coming into Portofino from the water. Rounding the bend past the lighthouse.Living my best life!Approaching the Abbey. The small chapel attached to the abbey. I did take a picture of the small service taking place! And some gorgeous old tile to finish this post!
Gary and Jillian's New Adventures 
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